6.7 Powerstroke EGR Delete Without Removing EGR: What Actually Has to Come Off

Four EGR Delete Kits, one for each Ford 6.7 Powerstroke model-year bracket, and exactly one of them is built for your truck. That's the whole decision tree for fitment on this kit — miss it, and you've ordered hardware that won't do the job on your build. Here's the thing — the EGR side of a Powerstroke delete is one of the more straightforward parts of the whole delete conversation, once you're looking at the bracket that actually matches your build year. Let's break it down bracket by bracket, then get into what's in the box, what the physical delete does and doesn't touch, and what else your truck needs before the check engine light goes quiet.

Which EGR Delete Kit Fits Your Ford Powerstroke's Model Year?

Model-year bracket is the detail to check first here, and the table below lays out exactly how the Ford Powerstroke brackets split by build date. Read it carefully before choosing, since a mismatched order becomes a return you'll want to avoid.

Your build year is the only spec that decides this. Not the trim, not two-wheel-drive versus four — just the year on the truck.

The 2011-2014 kit fits the 2011, 2012, 2013, and 2014 model years. The 2011-2014 kit is priced at $299.00. The 2015-2016 kit fits the 2015 and 2016 model years. The 2015-2016 kit is priced at $349.00. The 2017-2019 kit fits the 2017, 2018, and 2019 model years. The 2017-2019 kit is priced at $299.00. It's the best-selling Powerstroke EGR delete kit, compatible with F-250, F-350, F-450, and F-550. The 2020-2024 kit fits the 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023, and 2024 model years. The 2020-2024 kit is priced at $299.00.

Reading Your Build Date Against the Bracket, Not the Calendar Year

A truck built late in one calendar year can carry specs closer to the next model year than you'd expect. Pull the build date off the door jamb sticker rather than going by memory or the title, and match that date to the bracket, not the year you think you bought.

The One Bracket That Breaks the Pattern

One of the four brackets is priced apart from the rest. It's an easy thing to miss if you're skimming — check the listing for your specific bracket before you check out rather than assuming every year runs the same number.

What to Confirm Before You Order on a Bracket Edge

Sitting right on the line between two brackets, a truck built at the edge of a model-year change? Don't guess. Call (888) 830-2588 with your build date and VIN handy, and get matched to the right bracket before the kit ships instead of after it's back on your workbench.

Why Getting This Wrong Costs More Than a Restocking Fee

Ordering the wrong bracket doesn't just mean a return label. It means the truck sits while a swap gets sorted, and if the wrong hardware already went on, you're pulling parts back off before the right ones go on. Ten minutes double-checking your build date against the table above is cheaper than any of that.

What's Included in Your EGR Delete Kit?

Here's exactly what comes in the box, straight from one bracket's own product listing, word for word. Here is that listing's own line. Inside you get the complete EGR delete kit, all hardware and gaskets, step-by-step instructions, and shipping included, so there are no extra parts to source.

Nothing here ships as a bare part you have to accessorize before you can use it. The first bracket comes next. The install is DIY-friendly with instructions included. Here's the next one in line. The complete kit includes all hardware and gaskets, so there's nothing to source separately. And the last one closes it out. All hardware and gaskets are included, the install is DIY-friendly with step-by-step instructions, and there are no extra parts to source — everything ships in one box.

What "Ships Complete" Actually Means on the Bench

Complete means the gaskets and hardware are already in the box — no trip to the parts store for a fitting or a fastener mid-install. Lay everything out on the bench before you touch a wrench and you'll know in five minutes whether anything short-shipped.

DIY-Friendly Doesn't Mean No Tools

Expect basic hand tools and something to catch coolant, not a specialty tool cart. Budget an afternoon rather than an hour — rushing the small stuff is where a straightforward job turns into a second trip under the truck.

If You're Missing a Small Part

A missing bolt or clamp is worth a five-minute check against the written guide before it's worth a support ticket — small hardware is easy to overlook in packaging, not easy to actually need replaced. If it's genuinely not there, that's what support is for.

Do You Have to Physically Remove the EGR to Delete It?

The short answer comes first, and the reasoning behind it follows directly after. That one small distinction turns out to be the whole answer here. That single step covers the EGR side of the job without pulling the physical component off the truck.

A lot of guys hear "EGR delete" and picture unbolting the whole valve and hauling it off the engine. That's not what's actually happening here. You don't have to pull the physical EGR valve off the truck — removing the sensors is what the delete calls for. It's closer to disconnecting a system than performing surgery on it.

Variable geometry turbochargers vary the exhaust passage area before the exhaust gas enters the turbine wheel.^[1] Wastegate technology helps prevent turbocharger over-speeding and engine overboost.^[1]

Why the Sensors, and Not the Valve Itself

The delete kit's job is to stop the EGR circuit from doing anything, and the sensors are the part of that circuit the truck's computer actually listens to. Pull those, block what the kit is designed to block, and the valve itself can stay right where it's always lived.

What This Step Does and Doesn't Cover

This step is specific to the EGR component. It doesn't touch the exhaust and it doesn't touch the DPF or CAT — those are their own questions, answered further down this page.

What Guys Usually Assume Before They Look Into This

Most owners picture an EGR delete as a bigger teardown than it actually is — hoses everywhere, a valve wrestled out from behind the turbo, an afternoon lost before the truck moves again. The sensor-only step is a smaller job than that mental picture, which is exactly why it surprises people the first time they read the instructions instead of guessing.

Why Do These Trucks Have an EGR System in the First Place?

In diesel engines, internal combustion results in expansion of high-temperature, high-pressure gases, which in turn move pistons, transforming chemical energy into mechanical energy.^[3] Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) is categorized as one of a diesel engine's factory emissions controls, alongside systems such as Selective Catalytic Reduction (SCR) and a Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF).^[2]

None of that happens in isolation under the hood. In a common rail fuel system, diesel fuel is stored in a high-pressure rail that supplies fuel to each injector independently.^[4] That's a separate system doing a separate job from the emissions hardware sitting right next to it under the hood. The turbocharger isn't off the hook either. Variable geometry turbochargers aid engine braking, exhaust gas recirculation, and thermal management across engine speeds and loads.^[1] Deleting one piece of that lineup changes what the others are doing, which is exactly why the fitment and the install order both matter as much as they do.

The LZ0 turbo-diesel lists High Pressure EGR (uncooled) under its emissions controls.^[5] Rudolf Diesel built his first well-known prototype of the high-compression engine in 1897.^[3]

How EGR Fits Into the Rest of the Emissions Setup

EGR doesn't work by itself — it shares the intake side of the engine with the turbo and shares the exhaust side with the DPF and CAT. That's the whole reason a delete conversation rarely stays a one-part conversation for long.

Where the Turbocharger Comes Into the Picture

The turbo and the EGR system share the same exhaust stream, which is why work on one tends to raise questions about the other. It's worth understanding before you start pulling sensors, not after.

Why Deleting One System Changes What the Others Are Doing

Pull the EGR out of the equation and the rest of the emissions and airflow picture shifts with it — not because anything else physically moves, but because the truck's computer was tuned expecting all of it to be there together. That's the whole reason the tune and the hardware are treated as one job instead of two.

Do You Still Need a Delete Tune After the Kit Goes On?

What happens to the check engine light after install is exactly what this section is about. Here's what happens to your ECM if you skip that step. You'll need a compatible delete tune to update your ECM after install, or you'll throw codes.

Skip the tune and the truck won't let you forget it. You'll also need a compatible delete tune to update the ECM, because hot exhaust gases stop getting rerouted only once the computer knows the EGR is gone; without the tune, the truck throws check engine codes the moment the hardware is in. That's not a maybe — it's what happens the moment the hardware goes in without the computer being told what changed.

Common rail injectors deliver precise amounts of diesel fuel to the combustion chambers.^[4]

Matching the Tune to Your Bracket

Here's where people trip up. Order them together rather than assuming one tune covers every bracket on this page.

Getting Support If You're Not Sure Which Tune You Need

If you're unsure which tune pairs with your kit, ask before you install rather than after you're staring at a dash full of warning lights. It's a five-minute question that saves an afternoon.

What Should You Expect During Installation?

Here's the install order, in the source's own words. The first thing you should do is verify you have all the parts shown above. We highly advise you to Install the Delete tuner first. After installing the tuner, you can start removing the hard parts.

Work in that order and the job goes the way it's supposed to. The first thing to do is verify every part shown is actually in the kit. Get the sequence backwards and you're the one chasing codes with the truck half-apart.

The Order to Work In, and Why It's Not Arbitrary

Loading the tune while the hardware is still connected gives the truck a complete picture to calibrate against. Pull the hardware first and you've removed the very thing the tune needs to see, which is the whole reason the sequence is fixed rather than a suggestion.

Tools and Time to Set Aside

Set aside more time than you think a "sensor job" should take — access on a Powerstroke isn't always generous, and ten minutes spent finding the right socket beats twenty spent forcing the wrong one. A basic ratchet set, a handful of the smaller metric sockets, and somewhere to set fasteners down where they won't roll under the truck cover most of it. None of this calls for anything specialized — the time sink is patience with connectors in a tight bay, not exotic tools.

Double-Checking the Kit Before You Start

Spread every part across the bench and match it against what shipped before the first bolt comes off. Finding a short-shipped gasket after the truck is already apart costs you a day; finding it before costs you five minutes.

Is an EGR Delete Kit the Same as a Full Delete?

Good question, and the short version of the answer starts with the exhaust system itself. The exhaust needs to be deleted. A DPF/CAT delete pipe is a distinct product that only replaces the section of the factory exhaust containing the emissions parts.

Buying the EGR kit alone leaves the exhaust side of a full delete untouched. That's a separate product with its own listing, its own price, and its own install.

The L5P turbo-diesel's emissions controls include a diesel particulate filter.^[2] The L5P turbo-diesel's emissions controls also include selective catalytic reduction.^[2]

What a Full Delete Adds on Top of This Kit

Think of the EGR kit as one piece of a larger puzzle rather than the whole picture. A full delete brings the exhaust side into the same job, on its own timeline and its own budget.

Buying an EGR-Only Kit on Purpose

Plenty of buyers want exactly this and nothing more — the EGR side handled, the exhaust left alone for now. That's a legitimate way to buy this kit, not a partial job you're expected to finish later.

Keeping Track of What You've Already Done

Write down what's been deleted and when, especially if a full delete is happening in stages rather than one weekend. Whoever works on the truck next — including future you — will want that record more than they'll want to guess from what's missing under the hood.

Which Kit Should You Buy for Your Truck?

Narrowing this down to one purchase decision is what the rest of this section does. The right choice is whichever bracket matches your truck's build year; check the price on your own bracket's listing before ordering, since it is not identical across all four.

There's no picking a favorite among these four the way you might between two different exhaust diameters — your build year makes the decision before you ever get to preference. If you're running a 2020-2024 Ford Super Duty with the 6.7L Powerstroke, the 2020-2024 kit is the one built for your truck. Match yours the same way: find your bracket, confirm the price on that bracket's own listing, and order.

When to Call Instead of Guessing

If your build date lands anywhere near a bracket line, don't split the difference by ordering the closer-sounding option. A quick call with your build date settles it before money moves, not after.

Why "Universal" Isn't a Word You'll See on This Page

Four brackets exist because the hardware behind the EGR system changed enough across the production run that one kit can't cover all of it. That's not a sales gimmick — it's why the fitment table above is doing the real work on this page.

What Doesn't Change Between Brackets

The kit's job is identical on every bracket — block the same circuit, clear the same fault codes once the tune is loaded. What changes underneath is the hardware that fits your specific truck, not the outcome you're buying it for.

What Do You Get From Diesel Dudes After You Order?

This following section will have a few installation videos for you to reference. We recommend that you watch the first one then move onto the others if you need more information. Your parts may look slightly different depending on the version you got. Support is one message away if anything looks off.

You're not left with a box and a shrug. Watch the videos in the order they're presented rather than skipping to the last one. If something in the box doesn't match a photo exactly, that's not automatically a reason to assume a part is missing.

What to Do Before You Assume Something's Wrong

Lay the parts out, match them against the written guide first, then check the video if anything still looks off. Most "missing part" moments turn out to be a part that just looks a little different than the picture.

Reaching Support Without the Runaround

The chat bot is the fastest way in if something genuinely doesn't add up. Have your order number ready and you'll get an answer a lot faster than digging through a forum thread for someone else's truck. Keep the photos you took when you first opened the box, too — they make any support conversation faster whether the question is about a part, an install step, or the tune.