Which Ford 6.7 Powerstroke EGR Delete Kit Fits Your Truck?

Which EGR Delete Kit Fits Your Ford 6.7 Powerstroke?

Here is where the model-year question gets settled. It fits the 2015 and 2016 Ford F-250, F-350, F-450, and F-550 with the 6.7L Powerstroke. Each kit lists against one bracket only, and matching your truck's build year to the right bracket is the first fitment check before ordering.

The 2011-2014 EGR Delete Kit lists fitment for 2011, 2012, 2013, and 2014 Ford 6.7L Powerstroke trucks. The 2015-2016 EGR Delete Kit lists fitment for 2015 and 2016 Ford 6.7L Powerstroke trucks. The 2017-2019 EGR Delete Kit lists fitment for 2017, 2018, and 2019 Ford 6.7L Powerstroke trucks. The 2020-2024 EGR Delete Kit lists fitment for 2020 through 2024 Ford 6.7L Powerstroke trucks.

Reading your build year off the door jamb

Here's the thing — the number that matters is the build date on the door jamb sticker, not the model year the truck is sold under or the year you casually call it. Match that sticker against the brackets above before you look at anything else. That sticker sits on the driver's side door jamb, usually below the latch, and it lists the actual manufacture date stamped at the plant. Five minutes with a flashlight settles the fitment question before you spend a dollar.

What happens if you order the wrong bracket

Order outside your bracket and the mismatch does not show up until the truck is already on the lift: hoses that will not reach, a plate that will not seat flush, hardware drilled for bolts that are not there. That is a box going back, not a quick fix with a bigger wrench. It is an afternoon spent troubleshooting a mismatch instead of finishing the job. Get the year right and none of that happens.

Cab and box length are not a separate fitment check

Crew cab, regular cab, short box, long box — none of it moves the needle here. Model year is the only variable that decides which kit is yours. Not sure which bracket your cab falls into? Call (888) 830-2588 and we will confirm it before the order goes through.

Why Does the Factory EGR System Fail on These Trucks?

The system routes hot exhaust gases back into the intake manifold, depositing carbon soot every cycle. After enough miles the carbon buildup coats the intake and sticks the EGR valve, backpressure climbs against the turbo, and the truck drops into limp mode with a check engine light on the dash.

How soot actually accumulates in the intake

It comes down to basic combustion physics. The diesel engine starts differently than a gasoline engine.^[3] In diesel engines, internal combustion results in expansion of high-temperature, high-pressure gases, which in turn move pistons, transforming chemical energy into mechanical energy.^[2] EGR is the truck's answer to those exhaust gases, and none of what follows happens overnight — it is a slow accumulation, cycle after cycle, which is exactly why a truck can run well for years before the symptoms show up all at once. After enough miles that soot coats the intake manifold, clogs valves, and creates backpressure, which leads to limp mode, check engine lights, and repair bills. Variable geometry turbochargers vary the exhaust passage area before the exhaust gas enters the turbine wheel.^[1]

Why a stuck valve turns into backpressure and limp mode

Once the valve sticks, you are not looking at a minor annoyance. Backpressure fights against normal airflow on every pull, throttle response goes soft, and the dash lights up right when you need the truck to just work. None of it announces itself in advance, either — the truck runs normally right up until the day it very much does not, usually at the worst possible moment. Left long enough, that is the kind of failure that turns into a repair bill instead of a delete. Variable geometry turbochargers aid engine braking, exhaust gas recirculation, and thermal management across engine speeds and loads.^[1] Depending on a number of factors monitored by the engine computer, the DPF will need to be cleaned of accumulated solids.^[4]

Where EGR fits inside the engine's air-handling system

Here is how the listing describes that routing. Hot exhaust routes back into a clean intake manifold, laying down soot with every cycle. That placement is exactly why a problem that starts in the exhaust ends up choking the intake side instead of staying contained. The exhaust system has a Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) to reduce vehicle emissions.^[5]

What Comes in the EGR Delete Kit?

Here is what the listing says ships in the box. Inside you get the complete EGR delete kit, all hardware and gaskets, step-by-step instructions, and shipping included, so there are no extra parts to source. Installation is built to be DIY-friendly from the first bolt to the last.

Hardware and gaskets in the box

Here's what's in the box. All hardware and gaskets are included, the install is DIY-friendly with step-by-step instructions, and there are no extra parts to source — everything ships in one box.

Why nothing extra needs to be sourced separately

Buy a kit with a gap in it and you are the one making a parts-store run mid-install, mid-afternoon, with the truck already apart. A complete kit means every gasket and every bolt is accounted for before you start turning wrenches. That matters more on a weekend than it does on paper — parts counters keep limited hours, and a missing gasket on a Saturday project can turn one afternoon into two.

Where the printed instructions fit into the install

The install is DIY-friendly with instructions included. Keep them on the bench, not buried in the box liner — you want them open before the first bolt comes out, not after something does not line up the way you expected.

Do You Need a Tune After Installing an EGR Delete?

You'll need a compatible delete tune to update your ECM after install, or you'll throw codes. A compatible delete tune, like the EZ Lynk systems built for these trucks, tells the computer the EGR is gone and lets the driver select a power level afterward.

Why the ECM throws codes without a tune

You'll also need a compatible delete tune to update the ECM, because hot exhaust gases stop getting rerouted only once the computer knows the EGR is gone; without the tune, the truck throws check engine codes the moment the hardware is in.

What a delete tune actually changes

Here's the thing — the tune is not optional cosmetics on top of the kit. It is the piece that tells the ECM the hardware it expects to see is gone on purpose, so the computer stops flagging a fault and starts running the engine like the EGR was never there. Skip that step and the check engine light becomes background noise you eventually learn to ignore, which is its own kind of problem on a truck you actually rely on. The tune is what keeps that light off for the right reason.

Picking a power level after the EGR is gone

Want a say in power level once the delete is in? The same applies on the Ez lynk tuner - however, you have the option to select SINGLE horse power tunes off the Ez lynk if desired. That choice is yours to make once the hardware is off the truck, not before.

What Should You Expect During Installation?

Two things are worth knowing before the first bolt comes out. Installation is DIY-friendly and comes with instructions. At the block-off plate itself, the factory exhaust gasket or a high-temperature liquid gasket from a parts store both work as a seal.

Tools the job needs on a lift

A basic socket set, a drain pan for coolant, and penetrating oil on anything that has seen a few winters of road salt will cover most of this job. Add a torque wrench for the block-off plate bolts and a shop light you can actually position — half of this job is seeing what you are doing, not turning wrenches. Budget the afternoon rather than the lunch break.

Where the 2015-2016 kit's extra hose goes

The 2015-2016 install uses an extra heater core hose that the 2011-2014 install does not need. It is a small difference on paper, but it is exactly the kind of detail that turns a straightforward swap into a return trip to the parts store if you are working from the wrong year's instructions.

Gasket choice at the block-off plate

Use a High Temperature Liquid Gasket from any Part store nearby! The factory exhaust gasket works just as well if that is what you already have on the shelf — either one seals the plate. Neither option is exotic or hard to find, which matters on a Saturday when the last thing you want is a special-order part holding up the rest of the install.

Is EGR Failure Unique to the Powerstroke?

The same question comes up on the other badges, so here is what the manufacturer pages say in their own words. GM's L5P spec sheet lists a Cooled EGR system.^[7] GM's LZ0 spec sheet lists a High Pressure EGR system.^[6] That context is worth having before the next section.

EGR as standard equipment across diesel brands

On the LZ0, that EGR system is high-pressure and uncooled.^[6] Cooled Exhaust Gas Recirculation is standard on the L5P Duramax.^[7] Neither is a Ford engine, which is exactly the point — EGR is standard emissions hardware across brands, not a Powerstroke-specific design choice. The LWN Duramax carries a Cooled Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve among its emissions controls.^[8]

Why a Cummins or Duramax kit will not fit a Powerstroke

A delete kit built for a Cummins or a Duramax bolts to a completely different EGR valve, different coolant routing, and different mounting points. None of that hardware carries over to a Powerstroke, badge or no badge. Ram, GM and Ford each engineered their own answer to the same emissions requirement, and the three answers do not look alike under the hood. The Ram HD's EGR hardware is a next-generation cooled Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system.^[9]

Matching the kit to the badge, not just the fuel type

The support library also carries 2007-2009 Ram Cummins EGR delete instructions. The support library carries 2010-2012 Ram Cummins EGR delete instructions as well. Each set exists because the hardware behind each badge and each generation is genuinely different — "diesel" alone was never enough information to order against. That is worth remembering the next time a forum thread or a buddy at the shop tells you any EGR delete kit will do the job on any diesel truck. It will not.

Which Powerstroke EGR Kit Should You Buy?

The right EGR delete kit for a 6.7-liter Powerstroke comes down to one fact: the model year on the truck. The 2011-2014 kit is priced at $299.00. The 2015-2016 kit is priced at $349.00. The 2020-2024 kit is priced at $299.00.

The 2011-2014 EGR Delete Kit is priced at $299.00. The 2015-2016 EGR Delete Kit is priced at $349.00. The 2017-2019 EGR Delete Kit is priced at $299.00. The 2020-2024 EGR Delete Kit is priced at $299.00.

EGR Delete Kit | Ford Powerstroke Diesel 2011-2014

If your build date falls in this bracket, this is the kit — no reason to look further once the year matches.

2015-2016 Ford 6.7L Powerstroke EGR Delete Kit

The bracket people forget exists. Confirm your build date here before assuming you fall into a neighboring bracket.

2017-2019 Ford 6.7L Powerstroke EGR Delete Kit

Nothing sets this one apart from its neighbors except the model year on your truck.

EGR Delete Kit | Ford Powerstroke Diesel 2020-2025

For a 2020 through 2024 Ford 6.7L Powerstroke, the 2020-2024 EGR Delete Kit is the bracket to order.

Why price is a secondary filter, not the first one

Price will not do the sorting for you here — fitment does that first, every time. Pick by year, then notice what it costs.

What the $50 gap on the 2015-2016 kit reflects

For a 2015 or 2016 Ford 6.7L Powerstroke, the 2015-2016 EGR Delete Kit is the one to order. The price difference against the rest of the lineup reflects the extra heater core hose that install alone requires — not a markup, a different bill of materials.

Ordering the wrong bracket by year alone

A truck one year outside a bracket is still outside it. There is no "close enough" here — order by the exact year on the door jamb, not by rounding to the nearest kit you recognize. We get it — nobody wants to walk out to the truck and read a sticker before checking out online. That one extra step is the difference between a kit that bolts on clean and one that goes right back in a box.

What if the Kit You Ordered Does Not Fit?

Read the return terms on the listing before you order. There's a 30-day return policy on unused kits; once installed, returns aren't accepted, and the buyer covers return shipping and restocking fees. That makes confirming the fitment bracket before install the only real safeguard against a costly mismatch.

The 30-day unused-kit window

There's a 30-day return policy on unused kits; once installed, returns aren't accepted, and the buyer covers return shipping and restocking fees. That window is enough time to confirm fitment before the truck goes up on the lift — use it.

Why installed kits cannot be returned

Once a kit is on the truck, there is no putting it back the way it came. That is not a policy built to be difficult — it is the practical limit any installed part runs into. Gaskets get compressed, coolant lines get cut to length, and bolts get torqued into place, and none of that comes apart clean once it has been done. Treat the return window as your only chance to change your mind, because it is.

Confirming fitment before the first bolt comes off

Read the year off the door jamb, match it against the brackets in this guide, and confirm before you order — not after the truck is already apart. That thirty seconds of checking is the only real insurance you have against a non-returnable mismatch. It costs nothing, takes less time than unboxing the kit itself, and it is the one step in this whole process that depends on you rather than on us.