6.7 Powerstroke EGR Delete Kit: Complete Installation Guide

A 6.7 Powerstroke EGR delete kit removes the exhaust gas recirculation system from 2011–2025 Ford Super Duty trucks. The kit eliminates the EGR valve, EGR cooler, and related plumbing — replacing them with CNC-machined aluminum block-off plates and coolant bypass components. This guide covers fitment, installation steps, tuning requirements, and real-world install time for off-road applications only.

Key Takeaways

• Year range: 6.7 Powerstroke EGR delete kits fit 2011–2025 F250/F350/F450/F550 trucks — verify your model year before ordering.
• Installation time: Expect 4–6 hours for a mechanically competent owner with basic hand tools.
• Tuning is mandatory: ECM must be reflashed to disable EGR codes — the kit does not work without a custom tune.
• Materials: Quality kits use 6061-T6 aluminum plates and T304 stainless steel hardware — avoid mild steel components that rust.
• Off-road only: EGR delete is illegal for street use on public roads in all 50 states.

Why Delete the EGR on a 6.7 Powerstroke?

The factory EGR system recirculates exhaust gas back into the intake manifold to reduce NOx emissions. Over time this creates three problems:

Soot buildup. The intake manifold, intercooler, and turbo compressor wheel accumulate hard carbon deposits that restrict airflow. Every 6.7 Powerstroke owner has seen the black sludge inside the intake tract after 60,000 miles.

EGR cooler failure. The EGR cooler is a heat exchanger that uses engine coolant to cool exhaust gas. Coolant side corrosion and soot buildup on the exhaust side reduce efficiency. When the cooler clogs or cracks, you lose coolant into the exhaust or exhaust gas into the cooling system.

Reduced power and efficiency. Recirculating hot exhaust gas displaces fresh air in the combustion chamber. Less oxygen means less complete combustion, higher EGT, and lower fuel economy.

Deleting the EGR eliminates all three issues by routing only fresh air into the intake. You also free up space in the engine bay and eliminate two failure points — the EGR valve and EGR cooler.

6.7 Powerstroke EGR Delete Kit Fitment by Year

Ford introduced the 6.7 Powerstroke in 2011 and has released multiple hardware revisions. EGR delete kits are not one-size-fits-all.

2011–2014 models: First-generation 6.7. EGR valve mounts on the passenger side of the engine. These kits include a pass-through coolant plate, exhaust manifold block-off plate, intake manifold block-off plate, and coolant reroute hoses. Installation is straightforward — no need to remove the cab or pull the engine.

2015–2016 models: Mid-cycle update. Ford added an extra coolant filter tube on some trucks. Verify your kit includes the correct barbed fittings and hose lengths for this year range.

2017–2019 models: Second-generation 6.7 with revised EGR plumbing. The EGR cooler moved lower in the engine bay. These kits require a 21-step installation process per factory service manual routing. The rear EGR cooler bolts are a pain to reach — budget an extra hour if this is your first time.

2020–2025 models: Latest generation 6.7 with even tighter packaging. Ford integrated the EGR valve into the intake manifold assembly on some 2020+ trucks. Confirm your kit is designed for post-2020 fitment — older kits will not bolt up correctly.

All years require ECM tuning to disable EGR-related fault codes. The truck will not run correctly without a tune.

What's Included in a Quality 6.7 Powerstroke EGR Delete Kit

A complete EGR delete kit for the 6.7 Powerstroke includes the following components:

Intake manifold block-off plate: CNC-machined from 6061-T6 aluminum. This plate seals the EGR inlet port on the intake manifold. Look for a black anodized finish — raw aluminum corrodes in the presence of oil vapor and coolant mist.

Exhaust manifold block-off plate: T304 stainless steel plate that seals the EGR outlet port on the exhaust manifold. Quality plates are tapped for a 1/8-inch NPT EGT probe — this lets you relocate your exhaust gas temperature sensor to the manifold instead of the turbo pedestal.

Coolant pass-through or bypass plate: Replaces the EGR cooler in the coolant circuit. The factory EGR cooler sits in series with the engine coolant flow. When you remove it, you need a plate with barbed fittings to reconnect the coolant hoses. The plate routes coolant directly from the water pump to the heater core and engine block — bypassing the now-deleted EGR cooler.

Gaskets and hardware: New exhaust manifold gaskets, intake manifold gaskets, and stainless steel bolts. Reusing old gaskets will leak. Bolt sizes are typically M6x20mm for exhaust manifold studs and M8x25mm for intake manifold bolts — verify torque specs in your kit instructions.

Coolant hoses and clamps: Silicone or EPDM rubber hoses rated for 250°F coolant temperature. Cheap hoses collapse under vacuum or burst under pressure. Spring clamps or worm-gear clamps secure the connections.

Installation instructions: Step-by-step PDF or printed manual with torque specs and hose routing diagrams. If the kit does not include instructions, find a different kit.

Kits that also include a DPF delete pipe and SCR/DEF bypass are sold as "full delete kits." Those are covered in a separate guide.

Tools and Supplies You'll Need

This is not a shade-tree job with a single adjustable wrench. You need the following tools:

• Metric socket set: 7mm, 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 14mm deep and shallow sockets. The EGR cooler bolts are 8mm. Intake manifold bolts are 10mm. Coolant hose clamps vary.
• Metric wrench set: 10mm, 13mm combination wrenches for tight spaces where a socket will not fit.
• Torque wrench: 10–80 ft-lb range minimum. Intake manifold bolts torque to 18 ft-lb. Exhaust manifold studs torque to 28 ft-lb. Over-torquing aluminum threads strips them.
• Hose pick set or needle-nose pliers: For removing spring clamps on coolant hoses without damaging the hose barbs.
• Coolant drain pan: 2-gallon capacity. You will lose 1–1.5 gallons of coolant when you disconnect the EGR cooler.
• Shop rags and degreaser: The EGR valve and intake manifold are covered in oil film and soot. Clean the mating surfaces before installing block-off plates.
• Flashlight or headlamp: The rear bolts on the EGR cooler are hidden behind the turbo and FICM. You cannot see them without a light.
• Safety glasses and nitrile gloves: Hot coolant and sharp edges are guaranteed.

Optional but recommended: A Bluetooth OBD2 scanner to clear codes after the tune is flashed. This confirms the ECM is no longer monitoring EGR flow.

Step-by-Step 6.7 Powerstroke EGR Delete Installation

This process applies to 2011–2019 trucks. 2020+ models follow a similar sequence but may require additional disassembly of the intake manifold.

Step 1: Disconnect the Battery

Disconnect both negative battery cables. The 6.7 Powerstroke has dual batteries under the hood. Disconnecting prevents accidental shorts when unplugging sensors and prevents the ECM from logging fault codes during the install.

Step 2: Drain Coolant and Remove Air Intake

Open the radiator petcock and drain 1–2 gallons of coolant into your drain pan. You do not need to drain the entire system — just enough to drop the level below the EGR cooler.

Loosen the hose clamp on the intake tube at the turbo inlet. Unplug the mass airflow sensor connector. Remove the entire air intake tube from the air filter housing to the turbo. This gives you access to the top of the EGR valve.

Step 3: Disconnect EGR Valve Electrical Connectors

The EGR valve has two electrical connectors on 2011–2016 models and one connector on 2017+ models. Press the tab and pull straight out. Do not yank on the wires — the connectors are brittle.

If your truck has an EGR temperature sensor on the exhaust side, unplug that as well. You will cap this harness with electrical tape or zip-tie it out of the way.

Step 4: Remove EGR Valve Vacuum Lines

The EGR valve actuator uses engine vacuum to open and close the valve. Disconnect the vacuum line at the valve. On 2011–2014 trucks this is a single 5/16-inch line. On 2017+ trucks there are two lines plus a vent solenoid. Cap all vacuum ports with rubber caps or golf tees — do not leave them open or you will have a vacuum leak.

Step 5: Unbolt the EGR Valve Assembly

The EGR valve bolts to the intake manifold with 4–6 bolts depending on year. These are 8mm bolts. Remove them and set the EGR valve aside. The intake manifold port is now exposed.

Clean the mating surface on the intake manifold with a shop rag and brake cleaner. Remove all carbon deposits and old gasket material. The block-off plate will leak if the surface is not clean.

Step 6: Install Intake Manifold Block-Off Plate

Place the new gasket on the intake manifold EGR port. Position the aluminum block-off plate over the gasket. Thread in the stainless bolts finger-tight, then torque them in a cross pattern to 18 ft-lb. Do not exceed 20 ft-lb or you will strip the aluminum threads in the intake manifold.

Step 7: Remove EGR Cooler from Exhaust Manifold

The EGR cooler bolts to the passenger-side exhaust manifold with 7 bolts on most models. Access the rear bolts from below the truck or by reaching around the turbo. You may need to remove the exhaust manifold heat shield for clearance.

Remove all 7 bolts and pull the EGR cooler away from the manifold. The cooler is heavy and full of residual coolant — have a drain pan ready.

Clean the exhaust manifold mating surface. Carbon buildup here will prevent the block-off plate from sealing.

Step 8: Install Exhaust Manifold Block-Off Plate

Place the exhaust gasket on the manifold. Position the stainless steel block-off plate over the gasket. Install the bolts and torque to 28 ft-lb in a cross pattern.

If your plate is tapped for an EGT probe, now is the time to install your 1/8-inch NPT sensor. Apply anti-seize to the threads and torque to 12 ft-lb.

Step 9: Remove EGR Cooler from Coolant Circuit

The EGR cooler has two coolant hoses — an inlet from the water pump and an outlet to the heater core circuit. Use hose clamp pliers to squeeze the spring clamps and slide them back. Pull the hoses off the EGR cooler barbs. More coolant will drain out.

Remove the EGR cooler from the engine bay.

Step 10: Install Coolant Bypass Plate

The coolant bypass plate has two barbed fittings. Connect the water pump hose to one fitting and the heater core hose to the other fitting. Orientation does not matter — coolant flows in both directions depending on thermostat position.

Secure the hoses with new clamps. Worm-gear clamps torque to 35 in-lb. Spring clamps just squeeze until tight.

Step 11: Cap and Secure All Loose Harnesses

Zip-tie the EGR valve harness and vacuum lines out of the way. Do not let them hang loose where they can contact the exhaust manifold or turbo.

If your kit includes block-off plugs for vacuum ports, install them now.

Step 12: Reinstall Air Intake and Refill Coolant

Reconnect the intake tube to the turbo inlet. Plug in the MAF sensor. Tighten the hose clamp.

Refill the cooling system with 50/50 Ford Gold or equivalent coolant. Run the engine with the radiator cap off until the thermostat opens and coolant level stabilizes. Top off and reinstall the cap.

Step 13: Reconnect Battery and Flash ECM Tune

Reconnect both battery negative cables. The truck will throw EGR-related fault codes immediately. Do not start the engine yet.

Connect your tuner — EFI Live, HP Tuners, or a custom flash tool. Load the EGR delete tune. This disables all EGR monitoring and flow targets in the ECM.

After the flash is complete, start the truck. Let it idle for 5 minutes. Check for coolant leaks around the bypass plate and block-off plates. Check for vacuum leaks at capped ports.

Clear any stored fault codes with your scan tool. If codes return after 10 minutes of idle, recheck your vacuum caps and electrical connectors.

Common Mistakes During EGR Delete Installation

Reusing old gaskets. Factory EGR gaskets are multi-layer steel and crush on the first install. Reusing them causes exhaust leaks at the manifold and coolant leaks at the bypass plate. Always use new gaskets included in your kit.

Forgetting to cap vacuum lines. Uncapped vacuum ports cause rough idle, poor throttle response, and P0171/P0174 lean codes. Cap every port you disconnect.

Over-torquing aluminum bolts. The intake manifold block-off plate bolts thread into aluminum. Torque spec is 18 ft-lb — not "tight as you can get it." Stripped threads mean you need a helicoil insert or a new intake manifold.

Not flashing the tune before starting. The ECM expects to see EGR flow data. Without a tune, the truck will run in limp mode or not start at all. Flash the tune before reconnecting the batteries.

Leaving the EGR harness connector exposed. Moisture in the connector causes corrosion and can short out other sensors on the same circuit. Wrap the connector in electrical tape and zip-tie it up high away from the frame rail.

Product Recommendations

We carry three EGR delete kits at The Diesel Dudes that fit different budgets and year ranges.

2011–2019 Ford 6.7 Powerstroke EGR Delete Kit: Complete kit with 6061-T6 aluminum plates, T304 stainless block-offs, new gaskets, coolant hoses, and hardware. Includes step-by-step PDF instructions with torque specs. Ships free.

2020–2025 Ford 6.7 Powerstroke EGR Delete Kit: Redesigned for the latest-generation 6.7 with integrated EGR valve. CNC-machined components with black anodized finish. Includes all hardware and EGT probe adapter. This is our best-seller for 2020+ Super Duty trucks.

Ford 6.7 Powerstroke Full Delete Bundle: Combines EGR delete, DPF delete pipe, and DEF/SCR bypass in one kit. Save 15% versus buying components separately. Off-road use only.

All kits require ECM tuning. We recommend pairing with a custom tuner from our diesel tuner collection.

Frequently Asked Questions